11/8/08: Day 9 in Japan Part II - Kiyomizu-dera

Each time I am in Kyoto, I feel compelled to visit Kiyomizu Temple because of the magnificence of the temple itself and fun atmosphere surrounding the temple.
京都へ行く度、清水寺の魅力に引っ張られる。寺の周りの雰囲気も賑やかで楽しい。

Kiyomizu Temple is established in 798 AD, and its current buildings were constructed in 1633. The construction process is reknowned for not using nails.
清水寺は宝亀９年（７７８）に開創され、寛永１０年（１６３３）に現在の規模に再建された。

The main hall has a veranda at the height of 13 meters (40 feet), and there was a tradition during the Edo Era that one can have their wish come true by jumping from the stage and surviving. (My wish would be to survive the jump.)
本堂は「清水の舞台から飛ぶ…」の諺(ことわざ)で有名な舞台がある。江戸時代では舞台から飛び降りることも流行った。

My visit coincided with the rare opening of a hall that houses rare statues, but unfortunately, photography was prohibited. One of the areas we visited was situated underneath the temple, and it was the darkest room I have ever been. We were supposed to navigate our way through the winding corridors following the guardrail, but I kept bumping into a wall. At the end was a lighted golden statue that appeared like a hologram.
今年は偶然、25年おきの「清水寺御本尊御開」。普段には見られない像の見学は出来たが、写真は許されない。もう1件の像は地下に保存されていた。光が漏れない闇の中、手すりを頼りに迷路をしっかり進んだ。像は奥の部屋にあり、ライトアップされていた。今まで真っ暗だったので、像はホログラムらしく見えた。

After visiting the temple, we made our rounds of the store down the hill and admired the beautiful buildings that feature lot of traditional elements. While there were many eateries, Kiyomizu area is famous for their pottery.
見学の後は、坂を下り、色々な店に立ち寄った。勿論、清水は清水焼が盛ん。

It has been my tradition to make my own Kiyomizu-yaki, and I've made a rice bowl and medium-sized plate during my prior visits. This time, I was looking to make a serving bowl.
以前には茶碗とお皿を作ったので、今回は煮物用の器に挑戦。

The place to go is Kashogama.
お世話になったのが嘉祥窯（かしょうがま）。

It takes 15~20 minutes to shape your ware, and after that, you choose the color.
器の形をとるのには15~20分かかり、満足した時点で色を選ぶ。

Once everything is set, it takes few weeks for the pottery to dry, colored, baked in the kiln, and shipped. (Shipping fee is flat rate of 1,000 yen which is roughly $9.70).
乾燥、色塗り、焼きは数週間かかる。アメリカに届くのには1ヶ月後。海外への送料は激安の1,000円。

Here is my 2008 creation. The total cost was 4,000 yen, or $38.80.
これが2008年の作品。

Believe me, all my cooking seem to taste a lot better now!　
手作りの器だと料理が益々美味しく感じる。

11/10/07: Day 9 in Japan Part I- Temples of Kyoto

One of the biggest thrill during my trip to Western Japan is the visit to the temples. I timed my visit not only to coincide with saké brewing season, but also with foliage season (紅葉) in mind. The tie between saké and temple goes far beyond season, of course. The key components of rice and water each plays significant role in Japanese culture, symbolizing wealth and purification. Saké itsef is central in religious ceremonies, and some breweries began with their origins to serving particular temples and shrines (e.g., Harushika for Kasuga Shrine (春日大社), for one.)

Interestingly, brewers such as Sakura Masamuné benefitted from this relationship, having imported traditional architechtural technique used in construction of temples such as the 1,400 year old Horyuji to make their Brewery. The significance of this technique is the methdod of architecture without use of nails, which can adversely affect the quality of the saké.

Between Nara and Kyoto, there are many significant temples and shrines. Here are some of them from Kyoto (as always, click on the photos to enlarge):

Located in western Kyoto area of Arashiyama (嵐山) is the Tenryuji (天竜寺) known for their traditional garden and a very surreal bamboo forest.

Perhaps the most recognizable of all temples are photogenic Kinkakuji (金閣寺, Golden Pavilion), formally known as Rokuonji (鹿苑寺).

Not too far from Kinkakuji, also in northwestern Kyoto, is the famed Ryoanji (竜安寺), famous for their zen rock garden (called Karesansui, 枯山水).

On the eastern side, there is Nanzenji　(南禅寺), notable for huge gate and aqueduct ("Sosui" 疏水) that extends to Lake Biwa. While the temple was completed in 1291, aqueduct was erected in 1890.

Right near Nanzenji is Eikando (栄観堂), temple surrounded by Japanese maple. Of all the trees, Japanese maple seems to hit folage season early, providing fantastic pallet of colors.

Further south is Heian Jingu (平安神宮), with its Chinese inspired architecture. It covers a large property, complete with a gardens and ponds.

One of the most famous temple is Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺), whose name refers to the "pure water" from a small waterfall on the premises. Located on a hillside, its signature strucutre is the large balcony supported by wooden columns.

Of course, there are many more temples in Kyoto. The best time to visit is during foliage season in November. Some of the temple offer "Light Up" admission in the evenings, which from what I've seen on the brochures, look spectacular.