11/8/08: Day 9 in Japan Part I - Shinsengumi

Today is one of the most highly anticipated day of the trip, as I will take a day trip to Kyoto. One of the first places of visit is the home of Yagi and Maekawa families, which served as a base for the band of samurai known as Shinsengumi (新選組・新撰組).
今日は1年ぶりの京都見学。今回は初めて新選組(新撰組)の本拠の八木邸と前川低を訪ねる。

Mid-1800s was a very interesting time in Japan. With increased pressure from other nations to open the country to trade, the country became divided into those who want to maintain the purity of tradition versus those who preferred modernization. Even those two factions were subdivided among those for the Imperial governance or those in favor of the Shogunate. It is in this turbulant climate that Shinsengumi was formed.
19世紀は日本の歴史でも特に面白い時代である。ペリー将官を初めにして異国から鎖国の扉を開かす命が下りた日本では貿易等で国を生かす開国派と外人を払う攘夷派に分かれてきた。更に、各位の中でも天皇に従う尊王派と幕府に従う佐幕派が争い始めていた。この混乱している環境をきっかけに新選組が生まれた。

The leader of the group was Kondo Isami (近藤勇), dojo master of Shieikan and a practitioner of Ten-nen Rishin Ryu (天然理心流) martial arts.
局長は試衛館道場で鍛えた天然理心流四代目の近藤勇。

Although raised from farmers, Kondo strived hard to prove that he is worthy to be a Samurai, and dedicated himself to the bushido (武士道) warrior code. This belief ultimately formed the creed of "sincerity" (誠 "makoto"), which is evident in their flag.
近藤は百姓の生まれ。その壁を乗り越えすには「武士より武士らしくなる」と誓った。この努力があの「誠」の旗で示されている。

With this belief, Kondo opened up Shinsengumi to fighters of all different backgrounds instead of limiting to Samurai warriors. Although they were initially based in the home of Yagi family, their eventual popularity led to increase in membership.
新選組の兵士採用は武士だけに限らなかった上、応募者も多かった。

When the member grew too large for the Yagi home, they procured Maekawa home right across the street. In order to support the membership financially, Shinsengumi was able to align with Aizu Clan (会津藩) who served under the powerful Tokugawa Shogunate (徳川幕府) and gain recognition as the official guardians of Kyoto.
隊士の応募が八木家も追いつかない勢いであり、手前の前川家も抑えた。新隊士を支える手段として、徳川幕府に従う会津藩の下についた。

Here is the sign for Maekawa home. As evident on the sign and robe from photo #2, Shinsengumi's signature look was the light blue/white combination of triangles.
現在の前川邸のサイン。新選組のダンダラがモチーフ。

Like any organization, Shinsengumi had their share of internal problems. Initially, there were two dominant leaders in Kondo Isami and Serizawa Kamo (芹沢鴨). While Serizawa Sensei was skilled swordman, he was equally ill-tempered. After numerous incidents that defied the Makoto code and defamed the Shinsengumi name, Aizu Clan ordered Kondo to take care of their business. Serizawa-sensei was assassinated by several lieutenants shortly thereafter.
新選組は内部でも政治的な争いがあった。浪士組から新選組に改める直前、試衛館代表の近藤勇と水戸の浪士芹沢鴨、新見錦が局長の務めを果たしていた。芹沢は優れた先生であるが、京では色々乱暴な振舞いを起こしていた。ついに会津藩は芹沢を処分するよう命じた。先ずは新見が罪を払う為に切腹を申し込み、その後、芹沢は試衛館派の隊士に暗殺された。

Serizawa Sensei's grave and few other memorials are located in Mibu Temple, right in the neighborhood.
芹沢先生は壬生寺に眠っている。


Within the Temple, there is an island in a pond that forms the memorial garden.
芹沢先生の墓、新選組隊士の遺跡は池の橋を渡った庭に築かれている。

The legacy of Shinsengumi is interesting. While they were true in their purpose to served the Emperor, once Tokugawa Shogunate fell and Imperial Courts were aligned with the bitter enemies of Satsuma/Choshu alliance (薩長連合), Shinsengumi suddenly became the enemy of the Emperor.
朝廷に忠義を尽くしたのも限らず、徳川幕府が滅びて薩長連合が朝廷を手を組んだ瞬間、時の流れが新撰組を逆賊の立場に追い込んだ。

Shinsengumi fought under the "Makoto" flag until the bitter end. As the culture of battle shifted from sword to guns, Shinsengumi disappeared from history along with rest of the samurai.
新選組は「誠」の旗本で戦ってきたが、最終的には時の流れ、砲術には追いつかなかった。新選組は侍の時代と共にこの世から消えた。