11/8/08: Day 9 in Japan Part II - Kiyomizu-dera

Each time I am in Kyoto, I feel compelled to visit Kiyomizu Temple because of the magnificence of the temple itself and fun atmosphere surrounding the temple.
京都へ行く度、清水寺の魅力に引っ張られる。寺の周りの雰囲気も賑やかで楽しい。

Kiyomizu Temple is established in 798 AD, and its current buildings were constructed in 1633. The construction process is reknowned for not using nails.
清水寺は宝亀９年（７７８）に開創され、寛永１０年（１６３３）に現在の規模に再建された。

The main hall has a veranda at the height of 13 meters (40 feet), and there was a tradition during the Edo Era that one can have their wish come true by jumping from the stage and surviving. (My wish would be to survive the jump.)
本堂は「清水の舞台から飛ぶ…」の諺(ことわざ)で有名な舞台がある。江戸時代では舞台から飛び降りることも流行った。

My visit coincided with the rare opening of a hall that houses rare statues, but unfortunately, photography was prohibited. One of the areas we visited was situated underneath the temple, and it was the darkest room I have ever been. We were supposed to navigate our way through the winding corridors following the guardrail, but I kept bumping into a wall. At the end was a lighted golden statue that appeared like a hologram.
今年は偶然、25年おきの「清水寺御本尊御開」。普段には見られない像の見学は出来たが、写真は許されない。もう1件の像は地下に保存されていた。光が漏れない闇の中、手すりを頼りに迷路をしっかり進んだ。像は奥の部屋にあり、ライトアップされていた。今まで真っ暗だったので、像はホログラムらしく見えた。

After visiting the temple, we made our rounds of the store down the hill and admired the beautiful buildings that feature lot of traditional elements. While there were many eateries, Kiyomizu area is famous for their pottery.
見学の後は、坂を下り、色々な店に立ち寄った。勿論、清水は清水焼が盛ん。

It has been my tradition to make my own Kiyomizu-yaki, and I've made a rice bowl and medium-sized plate during my prior visits. This time, I was looking to make a serving bowl.
以前には茶碗とお皿を作ったので、今回は煮物用の器に挑戦。

The place to go is Kashogama.
お世話になったのが嘉祥窯（かしょうがま）。

It takes 15~20 minutes to shape your ware, and after that, you choose the color.
器の形をとるのには15~20分かかり、満足した時点で色を選ぶ。

Once everything is set, it takes few weeks for the pottery to dry, colored, baked in the kiln, and shipped. (Shipping fee is flat rate of 1,000 yen which is roughly $9.70).
乾燥、色塗り、焼きは数週間かかる。アメリカに届くのには1ヶ月後。海外への送料は激安の1,000円。

Here is my 2008 creation. The total cost was 4,000 yen, or $38.80.
これが2008年の作品。

Believe me, all my cooking seem to taste a lot better now!　
手作りの器だと料理が益々美味しく感じる。

11/8/08: Day 9 in Japan Part I - Shinsengumi

Today is one of the most highly anticipated day of the trip, as I will take a day trip to Kyoto. One of the first places of visit is the home of Yagi and Maekawa families, which served as a base for the band of samurai known as Shinsengumi (新選組・新撰組).
今日は1年ぶりの京都見学。今回は初めて新選組(新撰組)の本拠の八木邸と前川低を訪ねる。

Mid-1800s was a very interesting time in Japan. With increased pressure from other nations to open the country to trade, the country became divided into those who want to maintain the purity of tradition versus those who preferred modernization. Even those two factions were subdivided among those for the Imperial governance or those in favor of the Shogunate. It is in this turbulant climate that Shinsengumi was formed.
19世紀は日本の歴史でも特に面白い時代である。ペリー将官を初めにして異国から鎖国の扉を開かす命が下りた日本では貿易等で国を生かす開国派と外人を払う攘夷派に分かれてきた。更に、各位の中でも天皇に従う尊王派と幕府に従う佐幕派が争い始めていた。この混乱している環境をきっかけに新選組が生まれた。

The leader of the group was Kondo Isami (近藤勇), dojo master of Shieikan and a practitioner of Ten-nen Rishin Ryu (天然理心流) martial arts.
局長は試衛館道場で鍛えた天然理心流四代目の近藤勇。

Although raised from farmers, Kondo strived hard to prove that he is worthy to be a Samurai, and dedicated himself to the bushido (武士道) warrior code. This belief ultimately formed the creed of "sincerity" (誠 "makoto"), which is evident in their flag.
近藤は百姓の生まれ。その壁を乗り越えすには「武士より武士らしくなる」と誓った。この努力があの「誠」の旗で示されている。

With this belief, Kondo opened up Shinsengumi to fighters of all different backgrounds instead of limiting to Samurai warriors. Although they were initially based in the home of Yagi family, their eventual popularity led to increase in membership.
新選組の兵士採用は武士だけに限らなかった上、応募者も多かった。

When the member grew too large for the Yagi home, they procured Maekawa home right across the street. In order to support the membership financially, Shinsengumi was able to align with Aizu Clan (会津藩) who served under the powerful Tokugawa Shogunate (徳川幕府) and gain recognition as the official guardians of Kyoto.
隊士の応募が八木家も追いつかない勢いであり、手前の前川家も抑えた。新隊士を支える手段として、徳川幕府に従う会津藩の下についた。

Here is the sign for Maekawa home. As evident on the sign and robe from photo #2, Shinsengumi's signature look was the light blue/white combination of triangles.
現在の前川邸のサイン。新選組のダンダラがモチーフ。

Like any organization, Shinsengumi had their share of internal problems. Initially, there were two dominant leaders in Kondo Isami and Serizawa Kamo (芹沢鴨). While Serizawa Sensei was skilled swordman, he was equally ill-tempered. After numerous incidents that defied the Makoto code and defamed the Shinsengumi name, Aizu Clan ordered Kondo to take care of their business. Serizawa-sensei was assassinated by several lieutenants shortly thereafter.
新選組は内部でも政治的な争いがあった。浪士組から新選組に改める直前、試衛館代表の近藤勇と水戸の浪士芹沢鴨、新見錦が局長の務めを果たしていた。芹沢は優れた先生であるが、京では色々乱暴な振舞いを起こしていた。ついに会津藩は芹沢を処分するよう命じた。先ずは新見が罪を払う為に切腹を申し込み、その後、芹沢は試衛館派の隊士に暗殺された。

Serizawa Sensei's grave and few other memorials are located in Mibu Temple, right in the neighborhood.
芹沢先生は壬生寺に眠っている。


Within the Temple, there is an island in a pond that forms the memorial garden.
芹沢先生の墓、新選組隊士の遺跡は池の橋を渡った庭に築かれている。

The legacy of Shinsengumi is interesting. While they were true in their purpose to served the Emperor, once Tokugawa Shogunate fell and Imperial Courts were aligned with the bitter enemies of Satsuma/Choshu alliance (薩長連合), Shinsengumi suddenly became the enemy of the Emperor.
朝廷に忠義を尽くしたのも限らず、徳川幕府が滅びて薩長連合が朝廷を手を組んだ瞬間、時の流れが新撰組を逆賊の立場に追い込んだ。

Shinsengumi fought under the "Makoto" flag until the bitter end. As the culture of battle shifted from sword to guns, Shinsengumi disappeared from history along with rest of the samurai.
新選組は「誠」の旗本で戦ってきたが、最終的には時の流れ、砲術には追いつかなかった。新選組は侍の時代と共にこの世から消えた。

11/7/08: Day 8 in Japan - Trains of Japan Part I

As today is a travel day, this entry will focus on the trains that I rode in the first half of my trip.

While most of America is automobile-based society, Japan is heavily reliant on rail. Japan boasts perhaps the most modern and cleanest train system in the world.

I used a Japan Railways (JR) Rail Pass, which allows for unlimited rides for predetermined time frame. For my purpsses, I purchased "Green Car" ticket valid for two weeks for 60,000 Yen (about $570 at the time of the purchase.)

Shortly after landing, I took the Narita Express to go from airport located in Chiba Prefecture to Tokyo Station.

The "Green Car" is like the train version of Business Class, and in many cases, they are reserved seats. For Narita Express, the Green Cars had two rows on one side and single across the aisle. I was assigned a single seat, and here is the view across the aisle.

From Tokyo Station, I transfered to Yamanoté Line (山手線) to make a quick trip to Ueno. Here is the imposing view of Tokyo, right off the platform.

I stayed in Ueno the first night, because it was a departing point for "Komachi" Shinkansen (こまち) to Akita.

Komachi is connected to Hayaté Shinkansen (はやて) destined for Aomori. The trains separate at Morioka Station. I boarded Hayaté when traveling to-and-from Iwaté Prefecture (Nanbu Bijin).

In order to get to Yashima, home of Tenju Brewery, I transfered to the local Uetsu Line (羽越本線) once arriving at Akita City. I rode Uetsu Line quite a bit during my travels within Akita.

Further more, I made one more transfer to even more local train at Ugo Honjo Station. This is Chokaisan Roku Line (鳥海山ろく線). And by "even more local," this train ran on diesel as opposed to electricity (note the lack of wire above the train car). This is quite a transition from the Shinkansen...

I came across a different type of train when heading from Akita City to Tsuruoka (Také No Tsuyu, Eiko Fuji). This is "Inaho" Limited Express (特急いなほ). This train reminded me of the modern Japanese trains... from the late 70's/early 80's.

After Tsuruoka, I took Inaho to Niigata where I transfered to Shinkansen "Max Inabiko" (MAX いなびこ).

What's different about MAX Inabiko is that it is a double decker version of the bullet train.

After returning to Tokyo, I took subways to get to Oakwood Midtown near Roppongi then to Meguro. One thing about Japanese subway station is that it is very clean. Take note, MTA!

Here is the interior of the every day commuter train. Unlike the hard plastic seats, Japanese subways and commuter seats have comfortable cushions.

On my way to Osaka, I went through Tokyo Station. Here is one of their ticket gates. In Japan, they use either mangetic tickets or Suica cards. The tickets are inserted into the gates for verification at both entrance and exits, as fares vary according to the distance traveled. I admit I like the MTA pricing policy of $2.00 for a ride regardless of distance!

To get to Osaka, I rode "Hikari" Shinkansen (ひかり). There is a fasster line called Nozomi (のぞみ), but it is excluded from the Rail Pass program.

Here is the interior of the Green Car for Hikari. It is very modern and sleek, which wouldn't be out of place in Star Trek.

Part II of the Trains set will be available at the end of the trip...

11/6/08: Day 7 in Japan Part II - Back to Tokyo

After my too brief visit at Eiko Fuji, I was on my way to Tokyo via Shinkansen. The train left Tsuruoka, and headed to Tokyo via Niigata. Niigata is famous for rice, and it's easy to see why - miles and miles of rice paddies surrounded by mountains and cool breeze of Japan Sea.

短過ぎた栄光富士の訪問の後はまた新幹線の旅。今回は鶴岡発で、新潟経由で東京へ向かった。永遠と広ばる田圃は山脈に囲まれ、日本海から涼しい風を受け、米育ちに最高な環境とは言うまででも無い。

I checked into a hotel in Meguro area of Tokyo, as I was planning on visiting a certain izakaya famous among saké brewers and fans. But before that, my reunion with former neighbor Namiko-san awaits.

As Namiko-san works for Veuve Clicquot, we were invited to a wine party at Oakwood Premier Tokyo Midtown, a premium newly built long-term builf rental facility. Here I am with Namiko-san and Ludo from Oakwood.

東京では獺祭の桜井さんがお勧めする北尻大橋の居酒屋へ向かう予定があったので、ホテルは目黒区。だが、その前にニューヨークの近所の友達と再会する約束が。

洋子さんは現在シャンパンで有名なVeuve Clicquot社に勤め、その接待でOakwood Premier 東京 Midtownのワイン会に誘われた。これは洋子さんとOakwoodのルドさん。

We had such a good time, that by the time we left Oakwood it was well past 9:00 pm. Unfortunately, we were unable to gain entry to the izakaya as we were late. Thus, we had to find a backup plan, and found Ginza Kan izakaya in the neighborhood.
ワイン会では盛り上がり、会から離れたのは9:00過ぎ。目的の居酒屋へ向かったら、遅すぎてあっさり断れた。その代わりに近所にある銀座Kanレストランに立ち寄ることにした。

Ginza Kan is modern-Japanese in style, and menu is presented in Japanese paper.
銀座Kanはモダンな和が溢れる空間で、メニューも和紙に。

As enjoyable the time spent at Ginza Kan, we were still somewhat disappointed. Best solution was to try some of their sakés.
銀座Kanは楽しかったが、我々は落ち込んでいた。仕方が無いので酒を飲んだ。

The food was delicious. This particular dish is minced chicken skewer. We didn't stay out too long, as I was tired from my trip. Next stop is Osaka.
こちらの飯は美味かった。この一品は鶏のつくね。今晩は旅の疲れのおかげでそれほど遅く飲まなかった。明日は大阪へ。

11/6/08: Day 7 in Japan Part I - Visiting Eiko Fuji Brewery

Shortly after emerging from my morning onsen session, I was greeted by Kato-san from Eiko Fuji Brewery. Although Eiko Fuji is a recent entrant in the NY market, it is one of my favorites.
朝の温泉から上がった直後、栄光富士の加藤さんがわざわざ竹の露まで向かいに来てくれていた。栄光富士はつい最近、ニューヨークでも販売されられた銘柄で、個人的には好みなタイプ。

We arrived at Eiko Fuji after driving 30 minutes northwest towards Shonai Airport. Greeting us was an building from different generation.
栄光富士は竹の露から車で庄内空港方面へ30分程運転して到着。時代を遡る立派な建物が迎えてくれた。

As I needed to head to Tokyo by afternoon, I was pressed for time. Upon arriving, Kato-san took me on the tour of the premises. The steamer was the first stop, right by the entrance.
今日は午後に東京へ向かう為、時間は限られていた。到着し真直ぐ蔵元見学へ飛び込んだ。入り口の近くには蒸釜。

The brewery is spacious to a point where Kato-san kept saying that Eiko Fuji is not the most efficient operation. Thus, brewers had to run to koji room before rice cooled off. Located right next to the koji room is Yabuta press.
栄光富士は広く、加藤さんは常に「効率が悪い」と言っていた。蒸舞が冷め無い様、蔵人は遠い麹室へ猛ラッシュ。麹室の隣はヤブタ。

Fermentation tanks.
醗酵用のタンク。

Storage tanks.
貯蔵用のタンク。

More sets of fermentation tanks.
醗酵用のタンク#2。

Machine for labelling bottles.
ラベル取り付けの機械。

Area for bottle storage.
倉庫。

After the tour, I was guided to the guest room. There was a bottle display right by the entrance; the "Ari Kato" labels on the right is for exclusive distribution in Japan.
見学の後は蔵の客間へ。入り口の近くには避けボトルのディスプレーが。右側の「有加藤」の銘柄は日本国内専用品。

There is an old brewery sign displayed in the first tatami room.
最初の畳部屋には蔵の古いサインが飾られている。

In the second room, I noticed a nice room divider with gold fan motif.
隣の部屋には金箔の間仕切りが。

For this tasting, Kato-san prepared four selections: traditionally styled Banryu Honjozo, mellow yet clean "Jungetsu" Junmai, clean and dry "Shinki" Junmai Ginjo, and highly aromatic and deep "Kozakaya No Hitoriyogari" Daiginjo. The only regret was that I wasn't able to enjoy a long drink with Kato-san.
利き酒の為、加藤さんは4種類のお酒を選択：いかにも「酒」らしい味がする「万流」、優しい米の味がする「純月」純米酒、スッキリ感が溢れる「心鍵」純米吟醸、香ばしく味が深い古酒屋のひとりよがり」大吟醸。この度、加藤さんとゆっくり飲めなかったのは残念。

11/5/08: Onsen Hot Springs

(今回は外人に温泉のコンセプトを説明するので、英語オンリーで行きます。)

I've mentioned onsen hot springs several times in the past. It is rather unusual concept in the US, and it goes beyond the idea of "public bath."

(For obvious reasons, I do not have photographs for this entry...)

Japan is an island nation with considerable volcanic activities. Although this creates some major isues (volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, tsunamis, etc.), the Japanese can take consolation in enjoying natural hot springs as a byproduct of these dangerous heat-induced activities.

As the soil composition varies based on location and depth, the mineral composition of the onsen varies.

Onsen facilities have multiple areas. The first is the locker room, where in addition to changing, you can also groom yourself. Once in the onsen area, the first place where you would need to go is the washing area. As bath is communal, it is important that each bather go to the washing area and thoroughly wash their bodies.

Once cleansed, bathers are ready to enjoy the amenities, which may include bath with different mineral compositions, area with jacuzzi-like jet stream, soft bubbles, steam room, spa, cold bath, and if lucky, outdoor "rotenburo." Again, it is important to note that after going into the steam room or spa, one need to shower off sweat before re-entering communal bath.

On 11/4/08, I stayed at Hotel Grantia in Akita City. One night stay included single room, set dinner, breakfast buffet, and unlimited access to the hot springs for a very reasonable price of $70. Here is the Japanese site.

In this particular onsen, the color is rust due to the composition of sodium (natrium). The bath temperature is 92.5F with Ph level of +7.5. These properties are said to be ideal to treat fatigue, muscle ache, joint ache, and indigestion, among others. Naturally, I spent considerable time in the evening and following morning relaxing!

Here is the floor plan. Scrolling over dotted areas will open the photographs.

The following night, my stay at Také No Tsuyu allowed me to visit Yupoka Onsen on the adjoining property. As you may recall, construction of Yupoka resulted in a certain accident. Nevertheless, Aisawa-san was more than happy to take me there in the evening of the 5th and morning of the 6th. The entry fee was about $4.00 per visit, and in the morning, I ordered "breakfast set" ($9.50) which also included buffet-style Japanese traditional breakfast.

Unlike the onsen at Grantia hotel, the water was clear. Although I was given about one hour on my each visit, the time seemed to fly very quickly. Perhaps my best memory was sitting in the outside "rotenburo" during the evening, with a lone pine tree and being bathed by a moonbeam from a full moon. Only thing lacking was a bottle of Hakuro Suishu...