11/2/08: Day 3 in Japan Part II - Ama No To Party

After the Tenju experience, my itinerary took me to Akita City where tasting event for Ama No To sakés were being held. Click here to see the Ama No To brewer's blog (Select 11/02 on the calendar on the left hand side).
天寿見学後は「天の戸応援会」へ参加る為、秋田市へ直行。この会に関しては天の戸のブログをご参考。（左側のカレンダーで11月2日をクリックして下さい。）

Planning for and during this trip, I have often felt very lucky in terms of timing. Tonight was one such occasion, and I was lucky to be with 22 participants for what turned out to be a fantastic event.
旅の計画を立てている時と旅の途中、つくづくタイミングに恵まれていると思った。今晩に参加出来る事もそうであり、22人の友達と楽しい時間を過ごせた。

SAKÉS

There were 9 sakés total.
今晩は9種類のお酒が登場。

Hakuun Yuu Yuu Junmai Daiginjo
｢白雲悠々」 純米大吟醸
(+2, Miyamanishiki, 38%, AK-1)

Kamé No O (Fukuro-Tsuri) Muroka
亀の尾 袋つり 無濾過
(+1, Kamé No O, 55%, AK-1 & Hana Komachi)

Hiyaoroshi Junmai Ginjo
ひやおろし 純米吟醸
(+4, Miyamanishiki, 50%, AK-1)

Junkara Nama Junmai
醇辛生酒 純米酒
(+9, Gin No Sei & Miyamanishiki, 58%, Akita Imano No 29)

Gofuu Juu U Muroka Genshu
五風十雨 無濾過原酒
(+4, Miyamanishiki, 50%, Akita Imano No 12)

Umashiné 80 Muroka Junmai
美稲八〇 無濾過純米
(+4, Akita Komachi, 80%, AK-1)

Ama No To Black Junmai Ginjo
天の戸・黒 無純吟醸（黒麹仕込み）
(N/A, Hoshi Akari, 50%, N/A)

Competition Daiginjo Saké (handwritten label)
こんぺティション用の大吟醸酒　（手書きのラベル）

Taiheizan Tenko Kimoto Junmai Daiginjo
太平山 天功 きもと 純米大吟醸
(+2, Yamadanishiki, 40%, Assoc #9)

With these sakés, we were able to taste wide spectrum of what the local ingredients can become. They range from soft and deep, fresh and dry, to intense and fruity. Perhaps the most interesting one was the "Black," made with black koji commonly used for making Okinawan Awamori. The approach was very soft, yet there was a firm, focused flavor on the palate.
以上の集まりは現地の酒の幅の広さを味わえた。柔らかくても味が深いもの、新鮮で辛いもの、味が濃いフルーティーなスタイルなど色々。今晩一番特徴があった酒は天の戸「黒」。この酒は泡盛に使われている黒麹で仕込み、口当たりはまろやかで筋が確りして深みがある独特な造りである。

MENU

We were treated to great set of dishes at Kantorii. Here are some of the highlights:

Hand Rolls
巻き寿司

Abalone and Tuna Sashimi
あわびと本マグロの刺身

Sauteed Chicken
鶏

"Wagyu" Beef Steak
和牛ステーキ

"Namako Nabé," a stew featuring duck meat and dumplings made from Akita Komachi rice.
鴨肉と秋田こまちの団子豊富な「なまこ鍋」

FESTIVITIES

The festivities began with the opening remarks and toast. After we finished with the meal, Brewmaster Mr. Moriya introduced a song used during saké brewing. The songs were used to keep pace for mixing.
会は挨拶と乾杯で始まり、飯が終わった時点で森谷杜氏が酒造りに歌われた曲を皆に紹介する。

Everybody had a great time, and laughter filled the room. Around this time, I cannot forget Moriya-san saying, "this is the reason why I make saké."
この演奏は相当盛り上がり、皆も大爆笑。この時、森谷氏が「こうして楽しむ為に私は酒を造っている」の一言が忘れられない。

As we toasted many times, I could not help but feel thankful of the kind treatment I received from everyone. All the participants were genuinely warm individuals, and I cannot imagine having a better time.
乾杯も何回も続く一晩。遠くから来た私はとても親切にして頂き、本当に感動しました。「秋田は外は寒いけど人が温かい」しか言い様が無い人の集まりでした。

Lastly, we had closing words and toast. To all attendees, I would like to extend my warmest gratitude for such a great evening!
最後には〆の挨拶と乾杯。参加者の皆様、本当に楽しい会に同席させて頂き、誠にありがとうございます!

ROUND 2

We were supposed to be catching the train to go to Yokote, but on the way over to the station, we passed by the most interesting looking building. Mr. Kakizaki and Mr. Moriya was familiar with the place, and we decided to step in for a drink. The place was called Akita Nagaya Sakaba ("Akita Nagaya Bar"), and it was notable for the big Namahagé mask on the outside. On the inside...
横手方面の電車へ向かう帰り道に面白そうな建物があったので立ち寄ることにした。既に柿崎氏と森谷氏は親しい場所であった。この場は秋田長屋酒場で、特徴なのは巨大な「なまはげ」の仮面。店内はなんと...

...the entrance is notable for shocking display of black and red shoe boxes.
...漆と赤色のインパクトがある下駄箱が玄関で客を迎える。

The group seating is treated to the traditional tatami layout. I felt transported to a different time.
店内は立派な座敷。まるで別時代に居る様だ。

Akita Nagaya specializes in local Akita dishes and saké. The standout was fatty and chewy baked "Hata Hata" fish.
秋田長屋は地元料理と地酒の専門店。七輪で焼かれた地元の魚、「はたはた」は脂が乗り特にうまかった。

We closed with Chawan-Mushi featuring Matsutaké mushrooms. Chawan-Mushi is a Japanese egg custard base on dashi broth, so it is not sweet.
〆は松茸の茶碗蒸し一杯。出汁と松茸の繊細な味の組み合わせが最高。

Out of the blue appeared a Nebuta mask, so we couldn't pass up the shot with Kakizaki-san and Moriya-san.
突然、ネブタの仮面が現れた。柿崎氏と森谷氏の記念のワンショット。


Tonight was indeed one of the most memorable night, and I enjoyed every second. In my first post, I noted that a Great Saké Experience= Rice + Water + Yeast + Friend(s). Tonight was the epitome of such experience.
忙しかったけど忘れられない最高な一日。振り返って見れば、このブログの初ポストに「良い日本酒の経験＝米+水+麹+良い友達」と書いておる。今日こそ正しくこのブログで語りたい一日であった。

11/4/08: Day 5 in Japan Part II - Akita Nagaya Sakaba

At the end of Ama No To event held in Akita City on Day 3, we went to a great saké bar. As I am spending the night in the same Akita City before traveling to Yamagata, it goes without saying that I'll enjoy my drinks at Akita Nagaya Sakaba.

日本到着して3日目の夜、秋田市で行われた天の戸応援会の次に。最高な居酒屋に立ち寄った覚えがある。山形県へ向かう途中の今晩は秋田市で一泊するので、一杯する場所は言うまでも無く秋田長屋酒場。

Namahagé mask is used for a year-end festival to ward off evil spirits.
日本三大祭の一つと認められている「なまはげ」のマスク。

I wonder what saké I should drink... let me think long and hard...
この居酒屋ではどのお酒を注文するべきか、迷いますな～。

As I was by myself, I sat at the counter seat. In the middle is a hibachi grill.
今晩は1人なので、カウンター席で。七輪も設備されている。

No, this is not a corn dog. It's acutally a miso-grilled Kiritanpo, a famous Akita cuisine made using Akita Komachi rice. It went very well with all three sakés I ordered (Kariho Rokushu, Ama No To Umashiné, Ama No To Junkara.) I ordered Kariho (SMV: +5, Acidity: 1.7, Rice: Miyamanishiki, Seimaibuai: 57%), as they were out of Ama No To "Kamé No O Shikomi" Junmai Ginjo. Kariho was excellent: refreshing, crisp, and clean. 　
秋田名物のキリタンポ味噌田楽。この一品は今晩飲んだ三種類のお酒全部に合った(刈穂「六舟」吟醸、天の戸「美稲」、天の戸「純辛」。) 売り切れの天の戸「亀の尾仕込み」純米吟醸生の代わりに頼んだ刈穂「六舟」 (日本酒度 ＋５、酸度 １．7、原料米 美山錦、精米歩合 57％)はスッキリ感がする爽やかな辛口。

The onsen hotel I am staying includes dinner, so I ended my visit with butter- sauteed maitaké mushrooms cooked in aluminum foil.
泊まる温泉ホテルは夕食込みなので、ここでの注文はやや軽めで。〆は「舞茸ホイルバター焼き」。


Luckily for me, the staff remembered me from two nights ago, and were extremely friendly and kind with their services. With great food, saké selection and friendly staff, I would highly recommend this restaurant if you're in Akita.
店のスタッフさん達が私を覚えていてくれて、とても親切なサービスに恵まれました。美味い郷料理と地酒、親切なサービス、本当に最高の一晩でした。秋田市に行かれる方々には是非お勧めの居酒屋。

9/24/08: Akita Saké Tasting at Sakagura

On the eve of Joy of Saké, Sakagura hosted an event hosted by Akita Saké Promotion and Export Council (ASPEC). As the name suggest, the event involved five following fine selections: Naba Shoten (那波商店), Akita Seishu (秋田清酒), Suzuki Shuzoten (鈴木酒造店), Tenju Shuzo (天寿酒造), and Hinomaru Jozo (日の丸醸造).

In terms of prefecture-wide promotion, noone does it better than Akita. With their efforts, their events tend to be very popular, and this event was no different as attendees filled the rear area of Sakagura.

Here's what transpired:


Mr. Ohi from Tenju Shuzo, producer of Chokaisan, my perennial favorite at Akita Saké Club Tasting Events.


Manabito Junmai Daiginjo, made by Hinomaru Brewery.


This is a local fish from Akita. Related to sardine, the fish was high in fat with juicy plumpness. Paired well with crisp honjozo or a ginjo.


Brewers in action.

Review of 2006: June

June 17, 2006

Roughly a month after the Masumi tasting, Sakagura decided to host yet another tasting event, this time featuring selections by an up- and- coming importer, Joto Saké. I attended this event with my Saké Buddies Tim Sullivan and Hideo.

While the portfolio of Henry Sidel's company is small, they feature sakés that are truly artisinal. For this event, there were 19 selections from 5 breweries.

The first selections were three sakés by Huchu Homare Brewery from Ibaraki Prefecture known for their "Wataribune" labels. Wataribune labels are named after a legendary strain of rice that was thought to be extinct for over 50 years, until it was discovered in a lab at research institute. The significance of this rice strain is that it is the father strain of the famed Yamadanishiki.

Huchu Homare makes Junmai Daiginjo (SMV: +3, Acidity: 1.4, Rice: Wataribune, Seimaibuai: 35%, Yeast: N/A) and Junmai Ginjo "55" (SMV: +3, Acidity: 1.5, Rice: Wataribune, Seimaibuai: 55%, Yeast: N/A) using the Wataribune rice, while their "Taiheikai" Tokubetsu Junmai (SMV: +2, Acidity: 1.5, Rice: Gohyakumangoku, Seimaibuai: 55%, Yeast: N/A) uses the local rice, Gohyakumangoku. With this type of differes, we were able to enjoy the difference between the effect of polishing ratio between Junmai Daiginjo and Junmai Ginjo, and differences between the rice through tasting "55" and "Taiheikai." For the record, the Junmai Daiginjo had fruitier presence and longer finish, while Tokubetsu Junmai had slightly earthier and softer undertones.

The next in line were selections by Marumoto Brewery of Okayama Prefecture and their Chikurin "Bamboo Forest" line of sakés. Marumoto is an organic producer, and they grow their own Yamadanishiki rice on the premises. There were four sakés to try, including "Taoyaka" (Elegance) Junmai Daiginjo (+2, 1.2, Yamadanishiki, 35%, N/A), "Kaoyaka" (Lightness) Junmai Ginjo(+3, 1.4, Yamadanishiki, 50%, N/A), "Fukamari" (Depth) Junmai (+4, 1.3, Yamadanishiki, 60%, N/A), and the sparkling "Hou Hou Shu," not yet available in the States (Data N/A). The other note that should be mentioned for the non-sparkling sakés is that the pressing method between Junmai (accordion-like contraption) and Junmai Ginjo/Daiginjo (saké boat) is different.

Interestingly, I found that I enjoyed the Junmai the best as I seem to favor, relatively speaking in this case, deeper flavor and vibrancy owing to more intense pressing and less rice polished off. By comparison, both Kaoyaka and Taoyaka were very light and delicate in flavor, going down like water.

Moving on, we get to one of my recent breweries, Saiya Brewery of Akita. As you may recall, Akita Komachi received a very good review last month. Like the other two brewers before, the selections were very educational as we got to see the difference in impact of added alcohol, polishing ratio, and rice selection.

The Akita Komachi Daiginjo (SMV: +2, Acidity: 1.5, Rice: Akita Komachi, Seimaibuai: 35%, Yeast: N/A) showed that Akita Komachi rice is more fruitier than Gin No Sei rice, found in Daiginjo (SMV: +2, Acidity: 1.5, Rice: Gin No Sei, Seimaibuai: 35%, Yeast: N/A), which in turn showed that added alcohol has more fruity and less minerals on the finish compared with Junmai Daiginjo (SMV: +1, Acidity: 1.6, Rice: Gin No Sei, Seimaibuai: 40%, Yeast: N/A).

The next selection of sakés came from Shichi Hon Yari Brewery, featuring really cool looking spearman on the label. We had a chance to try the Junmai Ginjo (SMV: +5, Acidity: 1.3, Rice: Tamazakae, Seimaibuai: 50%, Yeast: N/A) and Junmai (SMV: +4, Acidity: 1.4, Rice: Tamazakae, Seimaibuai: 60%, Yeast: N/A). This was another case where I preferred the "lower" grade Junmai over more refined Junmai Ginjo, as I can detect more layers and complexity. The Junmai was decidedly more earthy of the two, featuring elements of marshmallow, mushrooms, grains, and cocoa to with a refreshing dry finish. Junmai Ginjo had steamed rice/fruit balance on the nose, followed by a fruit/grain balance and dry finish.

All the way at the end were sakés by Kasumitsuru Brewery from Hyogo, famous for Miyamizu water and Yamadanishiki rice. Interesting note about this brewery is that they make their sakés in either Kimoto or Yamahai method. There were 5 selections available to taste, including 4 usual offerings plus one additional Nama Genshu.

Kimoto Junmai Ginjo (SMV: +3.5, Acidity: 1.6, Rice: Yamadanishiki, Seimaibuai: 60%, Yeast: N/A) was a creamy style with flavors of nuts, cream, and yogurt. In contrast, another Kimoto, Extra Dry (SMV: +5, Acidity: 1.1, Rice: Gohyakumangoku, Seimaibuai: 65%, Yeast: N/A) was smokier and softer on the body.

Switching to Yamahai style, their Junmai (SMV: +4, Acidity: 1.6, Rice: Kitanishiki, Seimaibuai: 65%, Yeast: N/A) was creamy balanced with umami, and focused on the palate with dry finish. The Yamahai Ginjo (SMV: +3, Acidity: 1.4, Rice: Yamadanishiki, Seimaibuai: 55%, Yeast: N/A) exhibited the most fruit, with mild notes of melon balanced by soft grain and smoke.

Shiboritate Nama Genshu was slightly nutty, with balance of sweetness and spiciness.

All in all, this turned out to be one of the most educational and fun evenings tasting sakés.
************************************************************
June 25, 2006

Little bit over a months since attending Dassai Tasting at Sake Hana, I received an email from Mr. Sakurai. He would be in town in June, and wanted to get together with some saké enthusiasts in the States. After coordinating schedule with my Sake Buddies Tim Sullivan, Lefty, and "Guru of All Things Alcohol" Warren Radford, we decided to meet at a bar at Matsuri Restaurant for an evening of Saké Summit.

The evening was a lot of fun, as you can imagine. We had fun with the fact that Sakurai-san was here, by asking waitress "we're thinking of ordering Dassai Junmai Ginjo. What do you think?" (unfortunately, she was new, and didn't know) and having Mr. Sakurai-san confirm the bottle once it came out.

So, we kick off the evening with Dassai 50. While drinking, Tim, Lefty, and Warren would ask questions and I would translate. We discovered that they take such care into their saké to a point where they use plastic stopper and metal screwtop to minimize potential contamination and spoilage.

We decided to try couple of pretty good sakés to see how they compared with Dassai 50. First, we tried one of my favorite Junmai Ginjo, Kaika "Kaze No Ichirin" from Tochigi Prefecture (SMV: +2, Acidity: 1.2, Rice: Miyamanishiki, Seimaibuai: 53%, Yeast: N/A). While this vintage of Kaika was less fruity than the past year, the lack of fruitiness seemed to magnify when compared with Dassai 50. It drank easy, like water.

The next challenger was none other than Hakkaisan Honjozo from Niigata (SMV: +4, Acidity: 1.4, Rice: Koshijiwase, Seimaibuai: 55%, Yeast: Assoc. #7). Here, we chose the big name that was comparably priced, rather than go with the similar style. As a result, Hakkaisan proved to be very different, with far more earthy elements of nuts, grains, and steamed rice on the nose and palate with a nice dry finish.

Having tried two sakés, we were unanimous in our thoughts that there were no sakés that were better than Dassai 50 in the $45~$55 range (restaurant price). Fittingly, we ended a wonderful evening over another bottle of Dassai 50 before stumbling our way home.

11/1/08: Day 2 in Japan - Drinking with Tenju Brewers

Starting from this entry, I'll try to have the blog go bi-lingual, as I want those brewers and friends in Japan to share in my experiences.

日本の蔵元、友達にも私の経験をお伝えするため、今回のエントリーから日本語込みで頑張って見ます。

Today's agenda is to make my trip from Ueno to the town of Yashima in Akita Prefecture, where Tenju Brewery is located.
今日は上野から天寿酒造(秋田県矢島市)へ向かいます。

Scene outside Ueno Station, where I am to catch Akita "Komachi" Shinkansen.
上野駅周辺。上野駅は秋田新幹線「こまち」へ乗れるので便利。

As I am going to Akita, I bought Akita-themed lunch box for my journey. It was incredibly delicious.
秋田へ向かうので、駅弁は秋田の吹き寄せ弁当。これがメッチャうまかった。

I caught a small train for the last leg of the trip from Ugo Honjo to Yashima. Greeting me inside the train was the advertisement for Tenju Brewery.
羽後本荘⇒矢島は電車とは言えない汽車の旅。なんと汽車の席には天寿の広告が。

6:30 hours later, I arrive at Yashima.Tenju is located right off of the train station. The main entrance had the very traditional look.
六時間半の長い旅でしたが、無事に到着。天寿は駅から歩いて一分。立派な建物が客をお待ち。

I was escorted to the guest room while we wait for the evening festivities with the brewers.
客間に案内され、蔵人との酒造り直前に行う「反省会」を待つ。

Tonight was the first time I ever had a chance to share drink with brewers in the brewery for their Kickoff Party right before the brewing season begins. Here I am toasting with Oh-i brothers. I feel incredibly honored to share in this occasion. The President is to the left, and Hitoshi-san whom I met in NY is to the right.
今晩は人生初めて蔵元で蔵人と飲む機会がありました。蔵の皆様、とても感謝しております。大井兄弟と乾杯。(社長が左、NYで知り合った仁史さんが右。)



I was treated to sashimi platter and stewed "nabé" dish for dinner. Saké were Chokaisan Junmai Ginjo (sold as Junmai Daiginjo in the US) and Junmai served warm.
夕食は豪華な刺身プラターと鍋のご馳走。お酒は天寿純米吟醸(アメリカでは純米大吟醸として販売)と純米酒を燗酒で。

The evening was very festive. There were much laughter, even if I didn't understand some of the Akita dialect.
盛り上がる蔵人。秋田弁が通じなくても、大爆笑が続く夜。

Group photo. To be honest, I don't really remember this part of the evening. Perhaps I shouldn't have had that much hot saké...
皆でポーズ。正直に言えば、この写真撮ってもらった記憶は無い。多分、燗酒を飲まなかった方が良かったかもしれない...

I want to extend my heartfelt thanks to the staff at Tenju for allowing me to be part of such a special occasion!

蔵元の皆様、この様な貴重な会に同席させて頂き、誠にありがとうございます!