12/02/09: Day 13 in Japan, Part I - Koshigoé

I started the day by retracing the route from few days ago, except that my destination was not Enoshima but the town next door, Koshigoé. That fact did not prevent me from taking a glance of Enoshima, however.

The road along Shonan Beach is picturesque, reminds me of a driving course one might see in video games.

The stretch between Enoshima and Koshigoé is where the Enoden runs steet-level, amidst cars.

In Koshigoé, I visited Mampukuji, a temple where tragic hero Yoshitsuné of Minamoto Clan held fort while trying to reconcile with his older brother and Shogun, Yoritomo.

Memorial for Yoshitsuné. Highly talented strategist, Yoshitsuné had a tense relationship with his older brother Yoritomo. It has been said that rather than different bloodlines, Yoshitsune's seemingly aloofness towards politics led to this friction.

This is "Benkei's Juggling Stone." Benkei was a fiercely royal follower of Yoshitsuné, legendary for his last stand. More on that later.

On his way to Kamakura to deliver captured enemy general, Munemori of Taira Clan, Yoshitsuné and his charges were ordered to wait at Koshigoé, essentially forbidden from entering the capital. During his stay at Mampukuji, Yoshitsuné wrote "Koshigoé-jo," an emotionally charged letter to Yoritomo that was meant to reconcile their differences.

This picture on the shoji sliding door shows Yoshitsuné waiting longingly at the temple, hoping that the letter will thaw the relationship. However, Yoritomo saw the emotional appeal as further sign that Yoshitsuné didn't understand that the new government needed reason and logic to rule, further widening the gap between the two.

Eventually, Yoshitsuné was seen as expendable figure in the new government, and his persecution was seen as a necessary step to unite the Kamakura Shogunate. Along the way, he bid tearful farewell to his wife Shizuka.

Eventually, Yoshitsuné escaped to northern prefecture of Iwaté, but his allies eventually turned on him. Badly outnumbered with nowhere left to go, Yoshitsuné decided to do the honorable thing. As his last duty, his loyal follower Benkei gave his life holding off the enemy while Yoshitsuné took his own life. The legend has it that Benkei died on his feet, determined not to let his master down.

Inside the temple was the armor. Was not sure if it was the actual armor of Yoshitsuné, but the crest on the chest is of the Minamoto Clan.

Last fascinating item were decorations on the shoji sliding doors. These designs were carved out in wood and laquered in a traditional method called "Kamakura-bori" (literally, "Kamakura carvings.")

Visiting shops in Kamakura, one can find many examples of Kamakura-bori souvenirs including chopsticks, rice bowls, plates, trays, sandals, hand mirrors, and saké servers, among others.

11/25/09: Day 6 in Japan, Part II - Satsuma Clan

Satsuma Clan (薩摩藩) is one of the more intriguing and important political power during the mid to late 1800's, as the Tokugawa Shogunate (徳川幕府) came to a close. Initially, they were very much against foreign influence, but after couple of engagement that demonstrated superior western power, they became close with the British and pushed for modernization.

One leading figure is Shimazu Nariakira(島津斉彬, top), the 11th leader of the Clan. He was proactive in importing western technology to Japan. Ohkubo Toshimichi (大久保利通, top center) was one of the key politician that transformed Japanese government by importing western concepts. Perhaps the most popular figure is Saigo Takamori (西郷隆盛, right), who along with Ohkubo became top figures despite their lower-class upbringing. Saigo was known as a samurai, but also one of the key figures in forming Satcho Doumei (薩長同盟), an alliance between Satsuma and Choshu cans that eventually brought down the Tokugawa Shogunate. The alliance was brokered by Sakamoto Ryouma (坂本竜馬) of Tosa Clan (土佐藩, bottom center), and also included Katsura Kogoro (桂小五郎) of the Choshu Clan (長州藩).

This marks the birthplace of Saigo Takamori. Towards the end, he developed friction with his childhood friend Ohkubo. Saigo eventually led Satsuma Revolution to keep samurai class from being abolished. Injured and defeated, Saigo took his own life at the battle of Shiroyama. It is said that the shogun Katsumoto depicted in the movie "Last Samurai" is based on Saigo Takamori.

On the other hand, Ohkubo devoted his efforts in developing infrastructure such as roads, bridges, and ports while reforming the government. One of the key changes were made in 1871, when he set an edict that banned samurai from wearing swords in public.

From the international relations point, Ohkubo determined that the Japan had been weakened, and took a strong stance against invasion of Korea to the dismay of Saigo. Eventually, the differences in philosophies led to Ohkubo fighting Saigo's charges. As Saigo was wildly popular in Satsuma, Ohkubo was seen as a traitor to many. Eventually, Ohkubo was assassinated.

In fiction, Ohkubo is said to be represented as Omuro in the movie, "Last Samurai."

One of the turning point of the Satsuma Clan was the Teradaya incident of 1862. Shimizu Hisamitsu quelled a plot formed by some of the anti-modernization extremists within their clan at the Teradaya Inn. This action set the tone of Satsuma as modernists, as well as gaining needed political capital from the Imperial Palace.

Satsuma Clan also produced a famous female historical figure, Atsuhimé (篤姫). Raised by Shimazu Nariakira, she was eventually arranged to marry the Shogun, Tokugawa Iesada. This move was motivated to gain Satsuma political power, but eventually, the clan decided to support the Emperor instead of the Shogun forcing her into a very difficult situation. NHK produced "Atsuhimé" drama, which is highly suggested. These keepsakes were used in the series.

11/25/09: Day 6 in Japan, Part I - Kagoshima

The next destination on my itinerary was Kagoshima, the southern-most prefecture on Kyushu. As it would take 2.5 hours to get there, I picked up Chicken Namban lunch...

...and side orde of Yakisoba for the rail trip.

The Satsuma Clan, based in Kagoshima, was one of the more progressive power in Japan. During the Meiji Restoration, they sent 15 students to England to study the western technologies such as steam power to help modernize Japan. For their contributions, they are honored with a statue outside of the Kagoshima Central Station.

Not too far down the Napoli Street is the Meiji Restoration Museum. Spending one hour is a great way to understanding role of Kagoshima in shaping modern Japan.

Crossing the bridge to the museum, you can see the beautiful Sakura Jima.

After the museum, I headed down to the area called Dolphin Port to catch the glimpse of Sakura Jima up close. Sakura Jima is a picturesque island/volcano located in the Kagoshima Bay, and is featured in some Kagoshima-based drama such as Atsuhimé.

As the sun set, I began to make my way back towards the train station. At the intersection where the Tenmonkan Dori and Izumi Dori crossed, I couldn't help but notice the heavily westernized buildings that were lining the street.

For dinner, I decided to go two blocks north to Tenjin Baba Dori to look for a local flavor. As Kagoshima is famous for their Berkshire Pork, this lantern caught my attention.

Tonkatsu Jubei has been in business for over 40 years, and it's located on a second floor of a building, tucked away in the back.

I ordered the roast cutlet set (1,550 yen).

The Kagoshima pork was very tender and juicy, cooked to perfection. They were served with miso sauce, tangy tonkatsu sauce, and salt/pepper to enjoy in different ways.

As I was the first customer in, the chef came out and entertained me. He made ballerina out of tissue paper (right), cut outs of two swans kissing (bottom), hawk (left), and deer (top).

Here is the photo of ferris wheel above Kagoshima Central Station.

I ended up staying in a town called Sendai (川内). After getting there, I saw a Christmas light display in the shape of Doraemon.

11/21/09: Day 2 in Japan, Part I - Tokyo

The hotel has free breakfast, which is assortment of bread and salad. They promote their selection as being healthy, which means I was very healthy this morning.

After uploading post of Day 1, checking out of the hotel, and dropping off luggage at hotel #2, the lunch awaited in Tokyo. In the New Maru Building across Tokyo station, I found Suju, restaurant based on Nagano cuisine.

I ordered lunch set of Ginger Pork Sautee, which came with miso soup, pickles, and rice. With added umeboshi and large bottle of beer, the lunch tab was 2,530 yen ($29.08)

Heading little bit north is the Imperial Palace. Water display entertain the visitors on the outer perimeter.

Here is the moat. It's safe to say that the castle is well defended.

There were lot of pine trees on the premises...

This bridge is very famous, appearing in a lot of historic drama.

What is this rather innoculuous looking gate?

Why, it is Sakuradamon, where a famous assasination of progressive thinking senior advisor of the shogun took place. Assasination of Ii Naosuké was one of the key events preceding the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

On the walk back to the train station, a regal looking swan decided to accomodate me.

Another perspective, illustrating the width of the moat.

11/12/08: Day 13 in Japan Part II - Kamakura

The next destination was Kamakura. All the walking worked up our appetite, and there is one place to go: Kayagiya.
大仏様の次は鎌倉見学。結構歩いたので、腹が空いてきた。エネルギー回復のランチには茅木屋に行くしかない。

Kayagiya specializes in eel dishes. The combination of fatty eel with their secret sauce cannot be surpassed.
茅木屋は鰻の専門店。脂が乗った鰻の蒲焼きと秘伝のタレの組み合わせがたまらない。

The lunch set includes clear soup and Japanese pickles.
うな丼セットはお吸い物と漬物込み。

Kamakura came into prominence in 1192 AD, becoming the first capital of the East under the reign of Genji clan. The giant Torii gate welcomes visitor to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.
鎌倉は源頼朝により建久3年に幕府がおかれた。鶴岡八幡宮の足元には巨大な鳥居が。

Beyond the Torii is the highly arched Taiko-Bashi, or "Drum Bridge."
太鼓橋。

The sign for the Shrine incorporates pigeons.
本宮のサインには鳩の姿が。

The main hall.
本宮。

Right at the base of the Shrine are couple of ponds, collectively named Genpei Pond. Genpei signifies ruling Genji Clan and rival Heiké Clan. In the vicinity of the Genji Pond is series of flags dedicated to goddess Benzaiten.
源平池の旗上弁財天社近辺に飾られている旗。

On this particular day, there were series of display of chrysanthemums. This one was absolutely brilliant.
今日は偶々菊の祭が行われていた。

Side view of Taiko-Bashi, connecting Genji Pond and Heiké Pond.
源氏池と平家池を跨ぐ太鼓橋。

Interior of a saké shop near the vicinity of the Shrine. Because of the dinner plans and not enough space in my luggage, I had to pass on saké purchase.
八幡宮近辺の酒屋。夜は外食するし、荷物も多すぎたので、酒は買わなかった。

Even though I just had lunch, I had to have Kamakura croquette. This particular one is made from purple potato.
おやつは最近注目されている鎌倉のコロッケ。選んだのは綾紫。

Yum!
うめ~!

Maybe I shouldn't have eaten so close to dinner time...
夕飯直前に食べなかった方が良かったかも...