11/22/09: Day 3 in Japan, Part III - Hasshou Okonomiyaki

Okonomi-yaki, a Japanese cuisine made like an omelette, stirs passion among people of Japan, esepcially in the western parts. In the US, it's akin to asking who makes the best pizza.

Rgionally, Osaka is known as the capital of flour-based food, so naturally, they dominate the conversation.

However, Hiroshima is also very famous for their okonomiyaki, made in a more layered style with crepe-like crust.

Tonight, my friend recommended we go to Hasshou, said to make one of the very best Hiroshima style okonomiyaki.

There was a waiting line, not surprising for a store with such reputation.

The interior was small, seating about 16. The place was run efficiently by two chefs.

Here is the process:

The chefs take order from people on the line. Like assembly line, they prepare several at a time...

...flip to make sure both sides are cooked...

...coat one side with egg, cook, then apply the secret sauce...

...here we are, one step away from the finish...

...finally, sprinkle ao-nori, and we are done!

The verdict? This was definitely one of the very best I've ever had. The noodles were thin,firm, and chewy, and in perfect harmony with the cabbage, crepe, and sauce. The next time I'm back in town, I am definitely there!

Yup, we had a real good time!

11/22/09: Day 3 in Japan, Part II - Izakaya Danjiri

Since I enjoyed Danjiri izakaya so much 2 years ago, I decided to go there again. Accompanying me this time is a teammate from my baseball team.

As we are in Hiroshima, we toasted with Ugo No Tsuki "Koiomachi" Special Junmai Ginjo, refreshingly dry saké.

As we were drinking, the food arrived. Our selections were various orders of Yakitori. This is tsukune, formed like a meatball.

Yakitori uses all parts, including cartilege (left), liver (to the right), among others. We also ordered shiitaké mushrooms.

The next two sakés were also Ugo No Tsuki, including their twisting "Black Moon" Junmai Ginjo and mineral-driven Aiyama Junmai Ginjo.

Moving on to other brands we tried Kokuryu #39 Junmai Ginjo, bit less dry but rich in umami.

By this time, we were feeling pretty good, and I am relying on my photographic evidence to indicate what we drank. My friend recommended Kyokuhou brand, so we went with their Hiroshima Hattan Junmai Ginjo.

Somewhere along the way, we also ordered a nama of some type, but I don't remember which one...

Last order was Shichi Hon Yari Yamadanishiki Junmai as I caught the sight of the bottle in the big fridge. I don't remember the taste as much as the fact that we had a blast drinking it.

11/22/09: Day 3 in Japan, Part I - To Hiroshima

So, the hotel has this breakfast plan. Pricing for the food looks appealing (ham and sandwich for $1.25 or so.) However, you have to pay for drinks, which costs something like $8. Figuring I can have better use for my $800, I stepped right outside into McD's. Normally, I don't do McD's, but it's always fun to see the regional differences. Here, they have Mega Muffin Combo (490 yen), which includes Hash Browns and small drink (roughly 6 oz). Mega Muffin has 2 layers of sausage sandwiching American cheese-like substance, Egg, and already seasoned with ketchup.

Next to the hotel is a convenience store, where I picked up yogurt drink, stewed pork bun (角煮), and egg pudding for $405 yen.

The stewed pork bun was soooooo gooooood!

After checking out, I was on my way to Shinagawa Station to catch the Shinkansen to Hiroshima via Shin-Osaka.

One of the joys of long-distance rail travel is what they call "eki-ben," shortened term for lunch boxes sold at rail stations. I chose matsutaké mushroom lunch, although the star of the show was the marinated abalone to the left...

11/21/09: Day 2 in Japan - Shinjuku, Dinner at Aunt and Uncle's

My second night will be spent in Shinjuku, which was about 30 minutes away from Tokyo by JR Yamanoté Line. It has some nice architecture, such as this Coccoon Building.

Of course, the main strip has the decidedly Tokyo feel with the neon lights and all.

On the way to train station, I passed along a smoke filled alley full of old-school restaurants and izakayas. I would've stop by for yakitori and saké, if not for the fact that I was heading to my aunt and uncle's place in Ebisu for dinner.

Now, here's something you don't find out on every day basis. My aunt and uncle has been getting sakés shipped to their apartment from a certain brewery. They told me that the brewery is operated by a family of my paternal grandmother. Which brewery is this? Upon close inspection, the Dewa No Yuki from Yamagata. First bottle was the special saké, Tobingakoi Junmai Daiginjo, made usig 25% Yamadanishiki from Hyogo and 50% local Miyamanishiki, both polished down to 50%.

The Tobingakoi really came alive when paired with mixture of coarsely grated Yamaimo potatoes, salmon roe, and nori.

The next bottle was their "Giou Ginyo" Junmai Daiginjo, an outstanding saké for their very clean finish.

We spent the evening drinking sakés, and enjoying this view of the Tokyo Tower (right) and Roppongi Mori Building (left) from their bay window.

11/21/09: Day 2 in Japan, Part I - Tokyo

The hotel has free breakfast, which is assortment of bread and salad. They promote their selection as being healthy, which means I was very healthy this morning.

After uploading post of Day 1, checking out of the hotel, and dropping off luggage at hotel #2, the lunch awaited in Tokyo. In the New Maru Building across Tokyo station, I found Suju, restaurant based on Nagano cuisine.

I ordered lunch set of Ginger Pork Sautee, which came with miso soup, pickles, and rice. With added umeboshi and large bottle of beer, the lunch tab was 2,530 yen ($29.08)

Heading little bit north is the Imperial Palace. Water display entertain the visitors on the outer perimeter.

Here is the moat. It's safe to say that the castle is well defended.

There were lot of pine trees on the premises...

This bridge is very famous, appearing in a lot of historic drama.

What is this rather innoculuous looking gate?

Why, it is Sakuradamon, where a famous assasination of progressive thinking senior advisor of the shogun took place. Assasination of Ii Naosuké was one of the key events preceding the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

On the walk back to the train station, a regal looking swan decided to accomodate me.

Another perspective, illustrating the width of the moat.

11/19/09 - 11/20/09: Day 1 in Japan - Touchdown

11/19/09 10:00 EDT

My annual trip to Japan started at Oasis Lounge, courtesy of a lounge ticket for NWA.

Although my flight is at 12:40, why not get there early and take advantage of free amenities (ahem, "drinks"), right?

With the acquisition of NWA by Delta, my flight was technically NW 0799 but the plane was Delta fleet B770.

11/20/09 20:00 Japan Time
11/20/09 06:00 My body clock

After safely touching down then checking into the hotel, next on my agenda was to enjoy ramen, even though especially because my body clock reads 6:00 am. Since last year's pattern went well, I decided to retrace the same steps.

Asahi Dry, medium bottle (well, it's large for us): 480 yen.

Large serving ramen with Char-Siu Pork: 780 yen.

Gyoza dumplings: 300 yen.

Total dinner cost: 1,560 yen ($17.93*)

11/20/09 20:30 Japan Time
11/20/09 06:30 My body clock

The next stop was saké bar. By this stage, I am ignoring my body clock.

While the saké bar features saké selections directly sent from Yokobué Brewery, there were many shochu and spirits on the list.

This year, I had their Honjozo (SMV: +5) which had some hints of creaminess with a clean and dry finish, followed by their "Tachinomi"(立呑) limited release (SMV: +5), made specifically for their bar. This was softer with more creamy flavors on the palate. Each order cost 300 yen.

The last selection was Kodou (古道) junmai (SMV: +2), described as made in richer styles in the older style. Generally, such styles meant darker color, rich and full palate, and sweeter finish. In reality, it was intense, clean, and dry, more along the lines of modern genshu. As a special brew, it cost 400 yen.

All in all, not a bad way to spend 1,000 yen ($11.49*)!

*Note: Conversion rate is $1 = 87 yen.