11/7/08: Day 8 in Japan - Trains of Japan Part I

As today is a travel day, this entry will focus on the trains that I rode in the first half of my trip.

While most of America is automobile-based society, Japan is heavily reliant on rail. Japan boasts perhaps the most modern and cleanest train system in the world.

I used a Japan Railways (JR) Rail Pass, which allows for unlimited rides for predetermined time frame. For my purpsses, I purchased "Green Car" ticket valid for two weeks for 60,000 Yen (about $570 at the time of the purchase.)

Shortly after landing, I took the Narita Express to go from airport located in Chiba Prefecture to Tokyo Station.

The "Green Car" is like the train version of Business Class, and in many cases, they are reserved seats. For Narita Express, the Green Cars had two rows on one side and single across the aisle. I was assigned a single seat, and here is the view across the aisle.

From Tokyo Station, I transfered to Yamanoté Line (山手線) to make a quick trip to Ueno. Here is the imposing view of Tokyo, right off the platform.

I stayed in Ueno the first night, because it was a departing point for "Komachi" Shinkansen (こまち) to Akita.

Komachi is connected to Hayaté Shinkansen (はやて) destined for Aomori. The trains separate at Morioka Station. I boarded Hayaté when traveling to-and-from Iwaté Prefecture (Nanbu Bijin).

In order to get to Yashima, home of Tenju Brewery, I transfered to the local Uetsu Line (羽越本線) once arriving at Akita City. I rode Uetsu Line quite a bit during my travels within Akita.

Further more, I made one more transfer to even more local train at Ugo Honjo Station. This is Chokaisan Roku Line (鳥海山ろく線). And by "even more local," this train ran on diesel as opposed to electricity (note the lack of wire above the train car). This is quite a transition from the Shinkansen...

I came across a different type of train when heading from Akita City to Tsuruoka (Také No Tsuyu, Eiko Fuji). This is "Inaho" Limited Express (特急いなほ). This train reminded me of the modern Japanese trains... from the late 70's/early 80's.

After Tsuruoka, I took Inaho to Niigata where I transfered to Shinkansen "Max Inabiko" (MAX いなびこ).

What's different about MAX Inabiko is that it is a double decker version of the bullet train.

After returning to Tokyo, I took subways to get to Oakwood Midtown near Roppongi then to Meguro. One thing about Japanese subway station is that it is very clean. Take note, MTA!

Here is the interior of the every day commuter train. Unlike the hard plastic seats, Japanese subways and commuter seats have comfortable cushions.

On my way to Osaka, I went through Tokyo Station. Here is one of their ticket gates. In Japan, they use either mangetic tickets or Suica cards. The tickets are inserted into the gates for verification at both entrance and exits, as fares vary according to the distance traveled. I admit I like the MTA pricing policy of $2.00 for a ride regardless of distance!

To get to Osaka, I rode "Hikari" Shinkansen (ひかり). There is a fasster line called Nozomi (のぞみ), but it is excluded from the Rail Pass program.

Here is the interior of the Green Car for Hikari. It is very modern and sleek, which wouldn't be out of place in Star Trek.

Part II of the Trains set will be available at the end of the trip...

11/6/08: Day 7 in Japan Part II - Back to Tokyo

After my too brief visit at Eiko Fuji, I was on my way to Tokyo via Shinkansen. The train left Tsuruoka, and headed to Tokyo via Niigata. Niigata is famous for rice, and it's easy to see why - miles and miles of rice paddies surrounded by mountains and cool breeze of Japan Sea.

短過ぎた栄光富士の訪問の後はまた新幹線の旅。今回は鶴岡発で、新潟経由で東京へ向かった。永遠と広ばる田圃は山脈に囲まれ、日本海から涼しい風を受け、米育ちに最高な環境とは言うまででも無い。

I checked into a hotel in Meguro area of Tokyo, as I was planning on visiting a certain izakaya famous among saké brewers and fans. But before that, my reunion with former neighbor Namiko-san awaits.

As Namiko-san works for Veuve Clicquot, we were invited to a wine party at Oakwood Premier Tokyo Midtown, a premium newly built long-term builf rental facility. Here I am with Namiko-san and Ludo from Oakwood.

東京では獺祭の桜井さんがお勧めする北尻大橋の居酒屋へ向かう予定があったので、ホテルは目黒区。だが、その前にニューヨークの近所の友達と再会する約束が。

洋子さんは現在シャンパンで有名なVeuve Clicquot社に勤め、その接待でOakwood Premier 東京 Midtownのワイン会に誘われた。これは洋子さんとOakwoodのルドさん。

We had such a good time, that by the time we left Oakwood it was well past 9:00 pm. Unfortunately, we were unable to gain entry to the izakaya as we were late. Thus, we had to find a backup plan, and found Ginza Kan izakaya in the neighborhood.
ワイン会では盛り上がり、会から離れたのは9:00過ぎ。目的の居酒屋へ向かったら、遅すぎてあっさり断れた。その代わりに近所にある銀座Kanレストランに立ち寄ることにした。

Ginza Kan is modern-Japanese in style, and menu is presented in Japanese paper.
銀座Kanはモダンな和が溢れる空間で、メニューも和紙に。

As enjoyable the time spent at Ginza Kan, we were still somewhat disappointed. Best solution was to try some of their sakés.
銀座Kanは楽しかったが、我々は落ち込んでいた。仕方が無いので酒を飲んだ。

The food was delicious. This particular dish is minced chicken skewer. We didn't stay out too long, as I was tired from my trip. Next stop is Osaka.
こちらの飯は美味かった。この一品は鶏のつくね。今晩は旅の疲れのおかげでそれほど遅く飲まなかった。明日は大阪へ。

11/6/08: Day 7 in Japan Part I - Visiting Eiko Fuji Brewery

Shortly after emerging from my morning onsen session, I was greeted by Kato-san from Eiko Fuji Brewery. Although Eiko Fuji is a recent entrant in the NY market, it is one of my favorites.
朝の温泉から上がった直後、栄光富士の加藤さんがわざわざ竹の露まで向かいに来てくれていた。栄光富士はつい最近、ニューヨークでも販売されられた銘柄で、個人的には好みなタイプ。

We arrived at Eiko Fuji after driving 30 minutes northwest towards Shonai Airport. Greeting us was an building from different generation.
栄光富士は竹の露から車で庄内空港方面へ30分程運転して到着。時代を遡る立派な建物が迎えてくれた。

As I needed to head to Tokyo by afternoon, I was pressed for time. Upon arriving, Kato-san took me on the tour of the premises. The steamer was the first stop, right by the entrance.
今日は午後に東京へ向かう為、時間は限られていた。到着し真直ぐ蔵元見学へ飛び込んだ。入り口の近くには蒸釜。

The brewery is spacious to a point where Kato-san kept saying that Eiko Fuji is not the most efficient operation. Thus, brewers had to run to koji room before rice cooled off. Located right next to the koji room is Yabuta press.
栄光富士は広く、加藤さんは常に「効率が悪い」と言っていた。蒸舞が冷め無い様、蔵人は遠い麹室へ猛ラッシュ。麹室の隣はヤブタ。

Fermentation tanks.
醗酵用のタンク。

Storage tanks.
貯蔵用のタンク。

More sets of fermentation tanks.
醗酵用のタンク#2。

Machine for labelling bottles.
ラベル取り付けの機械。

Area for bottle storage.
倉庫。

After the tour, I was guided to the guest room. There was a bottle display right by the entrance; the "Ari Kato" labels on the right is for exclusive distribution in Japan.
見学の後は蔵の客間へ。入り口の近くには避けボトルのディスプレーが。右側の「有加藤」の銘柄は日本国内専用品。

There is an old brewery sign displayed in the first tatami room.
最初の畳部屋には蔵の古いサインが飾られている。

In the second room, I noticed a nice room divider with gold fan motif.
隣の部屋には金箔の間仕切りが。

For this tasting, Kato-san prepared four selections: traditionally styled Banryu Honjozo, mellow yet clean "Jungetsu" Junmai, clean and dry "Shinki" Junmai Ginjo, and highly aromatic and deep "Kozakaya No Hitoriyogari" Daiginjo. The only regret was that I wasn't able to enjoy a long drink with Kato-san.
利き酒の為、加藤さんは4種類のお酒を選択：いかにも「酒」らしい味がする「万流」、優しい米の味がする「純月」純米酒、スッキリ感が溢れる「心鍵」純米吟醸、香ばしく味が深い古酒屋のひとりよがり」大吟醸。この度、加藤さんとゆっくり飲めなかったのは残念。

11/5/08: Onsen Hot Springs

(今回は外人に温泉のコンセプトを説明するので、英語オンリーで行きます。)

I've mentioned onsen hot springs several times in the past. It is rather unusual concept in the US, and it goes beyond the idea of "public bath."

(For obvious reasons, I do not have photographs for this entry...)

Japan is an island nation with considerable volcanic activities. Although this creates some major isues (volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, tsunamis, etc.), the Japanese can take consolation in enjoying natural hot springs as a byproduct of these dangerous heat-induced activities.

As the soil composition varies based on location and depth, the mineral composition of the onsen varies.

Onsen facilities have multiple areas. The first is the locker room, where in addition to changing, you can also groom yourself. Once in the onsen area, the first place where you would need to go is the washing area. As bath is communal, it is important that each bather go to the washing area and thoroughly wash their bodies.

Once cleansed, bathers are ready to enjoy the amenities, which may include bath with different mineral compositions, area with jacuzzi-like jet stream, soft bubbles, steam room, spa, cold bath, and if lucky, outdoor "rotenburo." Again, it is important to note that after going into the steam room or spa, one need to shower off sweat before re-entering communal bath.

On 11/4/08, I stayed at Hotel Grantia in Akita City. One night stay included single room, set dinner, breakfast buffet, and unlimited access to the hot springs for a very reasonable price of $70. Here is the Japanese site.

In this particular onsen, the color is rust due to the composition of sodium (natrium). The bath temperature is 92.5F with Ph level of +7.5. These properties are said to be ideal to treat fatigue, muscle ache, joint ache, and indigestion, among others. Naturally, I spent considerable time in the evening and following morning relaxing!

Here is the floor plan. Scrolling over dotted areas will open the photographs.

The following night, my stay at Také No Tsuyu allowed me to visit Yupoka Onsen on the adjoining property. As you may recall, construction of Yupoka resulted in a certain accident. Nevertheless, Aisawa-san was more than happy to take me there in the evening of the 5th and morning of the 6th. The entry fee was about $4.00 per visit, and in the morning, I ordered "breakfast set" ($9.50) which also included buffet-style Japanese traditional breakfast.

Unlike the onsen at Grantia hotel, the water was clear. Although I was given about one hour on my each visit, the time seemed to fly very quickly. Perhaps my best memory was sitting in the outside "rotenburo" during the evening, with a lone pine tree and being bathed by a moonbeam from a full moon. Only thing lacking was a bottle of Hakuro Suishu...

11/5/08: Day 6 in Japan Part II - Water and Rice of Také No Tsuyu

This entry will focus on the water and rice of Také No Tsuyu Brewery.

今回は竹の露の命と言われる水と米の説明。

WATER・水

What do carp in a pond has to do with the water? Actually, a lot. Také No Tsuyu has been using city water sourced from Mt. Gassan, which was ideal for brewing sakés.

Unfortunately, the city changed source of water to the detriment of the brewery about 7 years ago. Right around this time, an developer was digging a deep well in the adjoinig property to find onsen hot spring to open up a spa.

Tapping well water can be risky. Depending on the water pressure, the water could slowly reach the surface, or aggressively gush out like a geyser. In this case, the latter took place. Unfortunately for Aisawa-san, he quickly found out that carp were not as fond of the concept of hot spring as us.

Rather than seeking compensation for the now extinct fleet of carp, Aisawa-san asked for the soil data from excavation.

この鯉にはある意味がある。2001年までは、竹の露は月山から流れてくる市導水で酒造りを行っていた。7年前、市は水を酒造りに不適切なのに切り替えた。丁度その頃、建築会社が隣の土地で温泉用の井戸を深く掘っていた。

湧き出てくる水は、圧力により勢いが変わる。この場合、激しい勢いで水が沸き、竹の露も含め辺りは洪水の状態。この時、相沢さんは鯉は人間と違い温泉と合わない事実に気が付いた。

相沢さんは賠償金の代わりに、建築会社から土のデータを要求した。

When the water runs through the ground, the different sediment layers behave like a filter. Therefore, understanding how these sediments are layered can help predict the quality of the water. Aisawa-san prefers to use soft water, and he eyed depth of 300m (984').

The photograph is of this water inside the holding tank. Aisawa-san estimates that the water has been resting inside Mt. Gassan for 5,000 years. The inner wall of the holding tank is white, and the aqua color of the water seems unreal. (Color of the photo has not been altered in any way.)

This refreshing yet soft and delicious water is the basis of Také No Tsuyu sakés since 2002.

土は水が流れると各レイヤーがフィルターみたいな役目になる。そのレイヤーの仕組みを分析すれば湧き水の質が大体解る。相沢さんは柔らかい軟水を望み、その水が300メータの深さにあると読んだ。

この写真は300メータの深さから湧いてきた仕込水、「天然弱アルカリ無菌超軟水」。月山の中に5000年眠っていた水。貯蔵タンクの中は真っ白で、それに対した水色の水はまるで嘘みたい。(写真の色の調整は一切していません。)

このスッキリしながら柔らかく美味しい仕込水が竹の露の味を2002年から支えている。

RICE・酒米

Také No Tsuyu uses local rice for their sakés. They include, among others, Dewa No Yuki, Miyamanishiki, Kairyo Shinko, Kyo No Hana, Yamadanishiki harvested in Tsuruoka, Dewasansan, and Kamé No O. Aisawa-san studies the protein content of the rice every year, and determine appropriate polishing ratio for each rice. Lack of adequate milling means poor water absorption, making it difficult for koji mold to access protein. On the other hand, polishing too much results in extremely mushy conditions. If rice distintegrates to a point it coats other bits of rice, then koji mold will feast on the outer coat and not reach the protein.
竹の露は現地栽培の米を中心に酒造りを行っている。主な種類は出羽の里、美山錦、改良信交、京の華、鶴岡山田錦、出羽燦々、亀の尾。毎年、米の心拍に応じて精米歩合の調整を行う。磨くのが足りなければ給水率が落ちその分、麹菌が心拍に混ざらない恐れがある。磨き過ぎたら澱粉が蕩け、他の米粒に余計なコートを塗る。この場合、麹菌は外側のコートに食いつき、心拍にたどり着かない。

Before polishing, there is a process to unify size. This process is handled by a machine called grader, which acts like a coarse mesh filter. Due to fine harvest, Aisawa-san is using Dewasansan rice that is at least 2.10mm instead of the usual 2.00 mm.
精米する前に、グレーダーと呼ばれる回転網を使い、米のサイズを統一される。ちなみに、今年の出羽燦々は素晴らしい粒張で仕上がったため、通常の2.00mmサイズを上まる「A網2.10mmサイズ」で整粒されました。

From this point on, I'll explain the late night work. The timing of my visit coincided with cultivation of koji for daiginjo. This is the daiginjo koji resting.
ここからは深夜の作業に関する説明。私が訪れた時は、大吟醸の麹を仕込んでいた。これが麹室で準備されてる麹。

Every one hour and half, brewers mix the koji rice to balance out the temperature and moisture. The box is tapped twice on the left, right, top, then bottom before the rice is spread out evenly. According to Aisawa-san, the one-and-half hour shift coincides with the human sleep cycle. Each shift lasts 2 weeks.
毎晩、一時間半おきに蔵人が麹の作業を行う。この作業は、箱を二回左、右、上、下と叩き、麹を平らに整える。麹に快適な温度と湿度を保つ必要な調整である。相沢さんによれば、一時間半の作業は人間の睡眠パターンに合う。蔵人は2週間おきに交代しながら作業を続ける。

I gave this a try, but it was more difficult than it seemed. Aisawa-san's advice was to imagine "Karesansui," which is a formation of the Zen rock garden.

私も挑戦してみたが、意外と難しい。相沢さんは「KCさん、枯山水を思い浮かべて下さい」とアドバイスを与えてくれた。

Does this remind you of the rock garden?
枯山水に似てますか?

At Také No Tsuyu, saké is brewed in a clean environment by brewers dedicated to their craft. In a way, I got to witness the old Japanese spirit in the form of their careful craftmanship and determination. As a Japanese, nothing makes me more proud than to see the old Japanese spirit and tradition kept alive by these craftsmen.

Anytime I enjoy Také No Tsuyu sakés, I can fully appreciate the water, rice, and people (Japanese spirit) of Yamagata. What more can I ask?

竹の露では清潔な環境で蔵人が酒造りに一心に励んでいる。プロセスには近道を通らず、丁寧に作業している根性は現代の大和魂と言ってもおかしくない。蔵人の姿を見ると、私は日本人として生まれて良かったと思う。

毎回竹の露を飲む度、山形の水、米、人(魂)を思い浮かべる。私にしては、これ以上贅沢なことは無い。

11/5/08: Day 6 in Japan Part I - Visiting Také No Tsuyu Brewery

After a nice morning dip in the onsen hot spring, I was on my way to Akita Station to board Shinkansen. On my agenda today is visiting Také No Tsuyu Brewery, located in Haguro Village in the city of Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture. Welcoming me at Tsuruoka Station was Aisawa-san.

今朝は温泉に入り、秋田駅へ。今日は竹の露合資会社の見学の為、山形県鶴岡市羽黒町へ向う予定。鶴岡駅では相沢さんがお迎えに来てくれた。

First thing we did after arriving at the brewery was to go out for lunch. Aisawa-san chose a local restaurant located amidst rice paddies, known for their hand-made soba. "Yama No Sobaya" specializes in thick and coarse "inaka-style" soba. We ordered the hot version, with its generous topping of roast pork and fried tofu. The combination of flavorful soup and firm texture of the soba was simply out of this world.
蔵元に到着したら真っ先にランチ。相沢さんのお勧めは田んぼに囲まれた「山の蕎麦屋」で田舎蕎麦。蕎麦は自家栽培で、ジューシーなチャーシューと油揚げ付き。味が確りした蕎麦汁と蕎麦の歯ごたえが最高。

Mr. and Mrs. Aisawa in front of the entrance to the brewery.
相沢夫婦と蔵の前で記念写真。

My first impression about Také No Tsuyu is extremely clean. That is not to say that other breweries are filthy, but at Také No Tsuyu, nothing seemed out of place.
蔵の印象と言えば、清潔感が溢れる。これは決して他の蔵が不潔と言う事では無く、竹の露の全てがキッチリされているからだ。

The first place Aisawa-san showed me was the tank where they keep well water. (The next entry will be dedicated to the water and rice of Také No Tsuyu.) Needless to say, Aisawa-san takes great pride in his water.
蔵の見学は水の説明から始まった。これが井戸水の貯蔵タンク。(次のポストは竹の露の水・米の詳しい説明。)相沢さんの話を聞くと、「水は命」の意味が十分解る。

This machine steams then cools the rice.
米を蒸してから冷やすマシーン。

Tank for the yeast starter. The aroma is quite something.
酒母タンク。酒母の香りも最高。

Nestled in the back of the brewery are fermentation tanks.
蔵の置くには仕込みのタンクが。

Right outside this room is a bamboo forest that inspired the name of the brewery (loosely translated as, "Bamboo Dew.") The shade offered by bamboo forest and cool draft descending Mt. Gassan provide ideal environment for aging and storing saké, even over the summer.
仕込みタンク部屋を囲んでいるのは蔵の名前の由来になる竹林。竹林の木陰と月山おろしが夏でも醗酵・貯蔵に快適な環境を作ってくれる。

This machine manages cultivation of koji mold. Their data management is very meticulous.
これは純米酒用の麹を管理する機械。竹の露ではデータの管理も徹底している。

Daiginjo-grade koji mold is manually managed by brewers in koji room in the 2nd floor.
大吟醸用の麹は2階の麹室で。勿論、職人の手作業。

After the tour, I went to onsen hot spring, then Aisawa-san took us for sushi dinner. Také No Tsuyu sakés went exceptionally well with the finely prepared sashimi by the sushi master of Happo Sushi. As we came straight from the hot springs, we don't have pictures for obvious reasons. After returning to brewery, we prepared for some evening work. Of course, preparation involved indulging in Hakuro Suishu sakés...
見学の後は先ず温泉。入浴後は和服へ着替えて、すし屋へ向かった。「八方すし」はマスターが繊細な腕を披露し、刺身と「竹の露」のお酒は最高のペアリング。温泉から直接向かったので、残念だが写真は無い。蔵に戻ったら、夜の作業の準備。その意味は「はくろすいしゅを」を飲むことであった...